I had previously travelled around Brazil’s massive coast, but this time I was off to explore the interior. Nestled in the heart of Brazil, Bonito is a hidden gem that offers travel experiences like no other. From stunning caves to snorkelling in crystal-clear rivers, Bonito is a paradise for the adventurous. For wildlife watching, combine it with the nearby Pantanal wetlands. It lies in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul, which means ‘Big Forest’. Once it was an impenetrable jungle, now home to ranches and huge farms.
Bonito
Bonito’s tiny airport has no baggage carousel. A big contrast from the huge city of São Paulo. We checked-in to the Arte da Natureza Hotel, for a short comfortable stay.
Exotic birds like the toco toucan and chachalaca squawked in the gardens. This charming hotel is in the heart of Bonito. There’s a pool, but I rarely had time to take advantage of this, due to very early departures for excursions. On arrival into a new town, I like to stroll around. It had a very laid-back atmosphere. The centre is only a few blocks away, but at 37C. not a place to walk in a hurry.
Our first adventure was to Rio Formoso Ecological Park. Our dread-locked guide showed us the ropes, literally, we were harnessed for a zip-line and aerial walkway. Rio Formoso cuts through the Serra da Bodoquena hills. This adventurous experience explores the beauties of Bonito from an airborne perspective. We started with an exhilarating zip line ride for over half a kilometre. I’m sure I reached a speed of over 60mph. If that’s not enough, then a wobbly trail suspended through the tree canopy. Finally, a refreshing float down the Formoso River. I swam through rapids, keeping the adrenalin flowing.
Bonito has mouthwatering regional cuisine, so in the evening, we had a delightful dinner at Espaço Jack. This rustic restaurant treated us to local dishes, with barbequed meat and veggie options. Huge terracotta cauldrons of rice, pasta and chicken dishes bubbled away. The entertainment was a guitar playing Brazilian country music singer. All washed down by copious local beer and cachaça spirit.
The Pantanal
On the second day we headed to Fazenda San Francisco in the Pantanal. This ranch showcases the vibrant fauna and flora of the swamp region. It is also a working farm. There had recently been forest fires, so the original plan to stay here changed to a day trip. Even so we saw a huge variety of creatures.
From a truck we saw capybaras, marsh deer, herons, storks and several caiman alligators. Then on a boat ride on the Miranda River we tried our hand at Piranha fishing using lumps of meat as bait. Those caught, thrown back, but caiman floated around, jaws opened, hoping for an easy snack. I saw a snake bird or anhinga, cocoi heron and cormorants. On the way back we even saw the bright blue elusive hyacinth macaw.
In the evening, more traditional regional cuisine at Restaurante Bacuri Cozinha Regional. I savoured the flavours of huge Pacu fish a local delicacy.
The Blue Lake Grotto
Another early start to one of Bonito’s most iconic attractions, the Gruta do Lago Azul. This stunning cave has a deep blue underground lake. The vibrant colour comes from the minerals in the water. The cave is a protected area, and visitors need a guide. I descended into the cave, awe-struck by the rock formations and the ethereal beauty of the lake. Everyone stops for a picture to capture this primal experience.
Down into the Abysm
In the afternoon, we took another thrilling adventure at Abismo Anhumas. I didn’t realize what I’d let myself into. First, a descent on a wire into a cave via a 72-metre electric abseil. On the way down, avoiding the rocky sides. It opens out to a huge cavern, like a grand cathedral.
We took a ride in an inflatable boat, gliding over the underwater conical stalagmites. Then snorkelled in the crystal-clear waters, around the incredible rock formations.
The tour includes all necessary equipment, and experienced guides ensure safety and enjoyment. Memories that will last a lifetime.
The Silver River
The following day, another unforgettable experience on the Rio da Prata, (silver river). A short walk through the forest lead to the source of a stream. Kitted out with snorkel and mask, I entered a natural pool of crystal-clear water. The current took me to an underwater world inhabited by dozens of species of fish and aquatic plants. I was going with the flow down 1,700 metres until the Olho D’Água and Prata rivers meet.
Then another half a kilometre gentle float down the deeper Rio da Prata. I was shocked to see a caiman alligator sunbathing on the riverbank. No one mentioned they were present.
Macaw sinkhole
In the afternoon, a visit Buraco das Araras, a huge sunken crater home to macaws and other birds. This breathtaking sinkhole is one of the largest in the world, 120m. deep and 500m. in diameter. Buraco das Araras is a birdwatcher’s paradise.
The stars of the show – the vibrant red-and-green macaws and yellow-faced parrots. In the dry forest I could hear crimson-crested woodpeckers, blue-crowned motmots. I also glimpsed blue-crowned trogons and a toco toucan. Looking back, we arrived at the hottest part of the day, so the bird activity was minimal. (If I ever go again, I will do this trip early in the morning, to see more birds).
Anaconda River
A final riverine experience was on the Sucuri River. I night have had second thoughts if I had known that ‘Sucuri’ means anaconda. By now we were old hands at kitting up in wetsuit, life jacket and snorkel. The visibility of the river’s waters made spotting schools of fish very easy.
Luckily there are no piranhas here! I floated with the current with a feeling of flying among the fish and plants. It is quite meditative immersing in this world of rare beauty. No anacondas were visible.
Brasilia
In the afternoon, we departed for Brasilia, the capital of Brazil. Upon arrival, I checked-in at Brasilia Palace Hotel. A symbol of modernist architecture, with swathes of curves, concrete and glass. Brasilia Palace was designed by Oscar Niemeyer and features two great murals by the artist Athos Bulcão. Staying at the Palace is living and feeling the history of the federal capital. The hotel is on the shores of Lake Paranoá and next to the Alvorada Palace, the president’s home.
I took a whistle-stop tour of Brasilia. Our guide Billy had lived most of his life here, as his father helped build the city. One can only marvel at the architectural wonders of this modern planned city. Conceived by Kubitscheck and designed by Oscar Niemeyer and Lucio Costa, built in only four years. As the population has grown exponentially, many of the workers now have to be bussed-in from outside.
First stop was Our Lady of Fatima Church. This lies within one of the residential superblocks that make up the city. The blocks cater to all the residents’ needs, shops, theatre, schools and libraries. It is a beautiful, small church, like a chapel, decorated with exquisite blue tiles. Some had a dove motif. It was one of the first buildings in the city. Then a stop at a larger church, the Santuário São João Bosco. This had a remarkable altar dominated by a huge chandelier made of Murano glass. Don Bosco is the patron saint of Brazil. The church designed by Carlo Albertos Naves is famous for its stained-glass windows in twelve shades of blue.
Continuing the religious theme, is the world-famous Metropolitan Cathedral of Nossa Senhora Aparecida. The Metropolitan Cathedral is one of the most visited destinations in Brasília. Dating from the 1950s. Oscar Niemeyer seems to defy the rules, a circular design with a conical roof and a surrounding pool. Outside white parabolic arches connect at a focal point and soar toward the skies. The pathway to the entrance is overlooked by stoic statues of the four Evangelists.
Once inside, the building appears bigger, due to a sunken floor. A circular white nave gives a feeling of space flooded with light. Blue and green light streams through huge triangular panes. A wondrous place for reflection or worship. Gazing upwards are several floating angel statues. These divine figures by Alfredo Ceschiatti are suspended from the ceiling to give them the illusion of flight.
The Cathedral lies along the Ministries Esplanade, near the Itamaraty Palace. This is part of the Three Powers Square, which houses the Planalto Palace, the Congress and the Federal Court. The final stop was lunch in the Mezanino restaurant of the TV tower. This looks down the ‘Monumental Axis’ upon which all the city’s most iconic landmarks laid out. I could taste the flavours of Brasilia whilst enjoying panoramic views of the city.
As the adventure came to an end, I took a moment to reflect on the incredible experiences. Bonito, Mato Grosso do Sul, and Brasilia exceeded expectations of natural wonders, adventure, and culture. From the stunning caves of Bonito to the architectural marvels of Brasilia, the journey was extraordinary.
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